Rabat and Fes are both UNESCO-listed imperial cities, but they ask completely different things of a traveller. Rabat, the seat of the monarchy since 1912, is broad-shouldered and easy: a green capital where you can walk from the Hassan Tower to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, taxi to the Kasbah of the Udayas above the Bouregreg, and end the afternoon among the storks and Roman ruins of the Chellah — all without a guide and with barely a tout in sight. Fes, around 200 km east on the ONCF line, is the opposite proposition. Its medina, Fes el-Bali, is the largest car-free urban area on Earth: some 9,000 lanes, the Al-Qarawiyyin university founded in 859 AD, and the Chouara tanneries working leather exactly as they did a thousand years ago. Rabat rewards the visitor who wants imperial grandeur in a gentle package; Fes rewards the one ready to get gloriously lost.
Option A
Rabat
The relaxed royal capital — coast, gardens and headline monuments in one day
Best for
First-time visitors, families, those wanting heritage without the hassle
Option B
Fes
Morocco's spiritual capital and the world's largest car-free medieval city
Best for
History enthusiasts, culture immersers, slow travellers who want a challenge
