Rabat's signature pair of sights could hardly be more different in mood, and many visitors try to choose between them when in truth they answer different cravings. The Kasbah of the Udayas crowns the headland where the Bouregreg river meets the Atlantic: founded in the 12th century by the Almohads, its blue-and-white painted lanes climb to a platform with sweeping views over the river to Salé, and the Andalusian Gardens and a café famous for mint tea sit just inside the walls. Chellah lies a couple of kilometres south-east, beyond the modern city walls — a layered ruin where the Phoenicians and then the Romans built the port-town of Sala Colonia, and where the Merinid sultans of the 14th century added a royal necropolis, a mosque and a minaret. Today its crumbling stonework is crowned with vast stork nests and softened by fig trees and wild flowers. The kasbah is about light, colour and the sea; Chellah is about silence, history and birds.
Option A
Kasbah of the Udayas
A 12th-century clifftop kasbah of blue-washed lanes above the Bouregreg
Best for
Photographers, golden-hour wanderers, those who love sea views and Andalusian gardens
Option B
Chellah
A walled Roman trading post turned Merinid royal necropolis, reclaimed by storks and figs
Best for
History and ruins lovers, birdwatchers, travellers seeking quiet and atmosphere
